Exploring Barcelona By Sea

Exploring Barcelona can be done on foot, by bicycle, on a scooter or via the convenient tour buses that deliver passengers to key sites all around town. These are all great ways to experience the city however one of the most unique ways to do so is by sea.

One of the biggest attributes Barcelona has over other popular Spanish cities is that in fact it really is a buzzing city that also has an immaculate seafront and isn’t just a sleepy seaside fishing village. Barcelona’s history and current day culture is closely linked with the sea. It is home to one of Europe’s principal ports which can viewed from atop Montjuic and its common knowledge that many a tourist embark on their Barcelona adventure by way of cruise ship as it is a popular destination along Mediterranean cruise routes.

Barceloneta, the neighborhood that borders the sea and has a beach of the same was actually settled by fisherman in the 18th century due to its proximity to the sea. In present day luxurious yachts and classic sailboats can be seen at the cities boat docks like Port Vell and Port Olympic.

So, what is all this about… To say it is worth your while to take to the water and get a seaman’s perspective of this great port city. And just how do you do that? Well, hop aboard a boat for a day cruise, of course!

There are two popular companies that offer trips along the Barcelona coastline. Las Golondorinas are large wooden-hulled pleasure boats that take passengers on an 18-mile trip that begins in the popular Port Vell all the way to Forum Port in Sant Adria de Besos lasting for about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

These boats generally pack in the crowds and therefore suggest my favorite of the two for a more intimate sea experience and amazing coastal views of the Barcelona skyline, Catamaran Orsom. With a maximum capacity of 80, it is the largest sailing catamaran offering its services to the general public yet has a more intimate feel than Las Golondorinas.

The boat is absolutely stunning and the experienced crew is attentive giving you a sense of security while sailing on the open water. They offer daily public sails that allow you to relax and enjoy the sun, sea and beautiful vistas of Barcelona from the Mediterranean during daylight hours. Their jazz cruises, which sets sail in the late afternoon/early evening is an enjoyable treat for saxophone fans.

The boat isn’t large enough to host a full jazz band! And lastly, my favorite is the sunset cruise. It isn’t always on offer and only sets sail when there is perfect weather conditions making this trip all the more special as you watch the sunset over Barcelona and the evening lights come aglow.

Leaving from the dock just behind the Columbus statue and the end of Las Ramblas you’ll peel off from land leaving the city behind you and Tibidabo on the horizon line. You’ll pass by popular sites you probably saw up close like Frank Gehry’s bronze fish sculpture nestled between the Mapfre tower and the Hotel Arts as well as the old lighthouse at the old fishing port. To top off the hour and a half cruise you can sip on traditional sangria or Catalan cava. Now that’s a sea adventure worth checking out!

Las Golondrinas
Plaça del Portal de la Pau
Tel: +34 93 442 3106
For more information: www.lasgolondorinas.com

Catamaran Orsom
Sales Kiosk: Portal de la Pau, Moll de Drassanes, Port Barcelona
Tel: +34 93 441 05 37
For more info go to www.barcelona-orsom.com

The Olympic Games of 1992 - bringing Barcelona to the world stage

The 1992 Olympic Games are widely credited with revitalizing the city of Barcelona. Prior to the Games much of the city had been neglected. In fact, Barcelona was known as the city that had turned its back to the sea due to the fact that it had all but abandoned the seafront. The Olympics brought two important changes to the city. First of all, tourism increased as a direct result of the Olympic Games, and has increased steadily ever since. Secondly, for the first time ever, worldwide attention was given to Catalan culture.

Prior to the 1992 Olympics Barcelona had made bids to host the Games of 1924, 1936, and 1940, and each time was unsuccessful. Winning the bid for the 1992 Olympics was considered a huge triumph for its organizers, and the date was made even more important because it coincided with the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus.

Prior to the Games the producers of the opening ceremony conducted an international survey on the image of Catalonia and Spain. They found that the images associated with Spain were primarily tourist-oriented stereotypes such as sun, wine, siestas, and flamenco, while there was almost no recognition of Catalonia outside of Western Europe. One of the primary goals of the organizers was to find a balance between the promotion of Barcelona, Catalonia, and Spain. Giving fair recognition to both Spanish culture and Catalan culture was of particular concern.

It must be said that one of the most important achievements of the organizers was that they managed to find the perfect balance in the representation of both cultures. For the first time ever media all over the world was giving attention to Catalan culture, and at the same time it seemed to be universally acknowledged that Barcelona, Catalonia, and Spain, were all of equal importance as a host.

The 1992 Games were the most highly attended Olympics in history, in terms of both countries and athletes. The Olympics gave the country a reason to invest in the city because its organizers felt that it would be an opportunity to promote Catalan culture, which was relatively unknown at that time, and enhance the city´s image abroad. If it were not for the Olympic Games it would probably have taken decades to achieve the transformation of the city that was achieved in just a few years.

Billions of investments in infrastructure were made in preparation for the Games. The plan of urban renewal was incredibly ambitious and included, among other things, the construction of the Olympic Village and Olympic Port in Poblenou, modern sports facilities in Montjuic, Diagonal, and Vall d’Hebron, and the modernization of the El Prat airport.

Barcelona is unique and that it managed to put all of the structures to use after the Olympics were over. Many of them are now popular tourist attractions and others are put to use by the citizens themselves. For example, the Olympic pool in Montjuic is now open to the public and for a small fee visitors can spend the day lounging, swimming and enjoying the views at the outdoor pool, while other sports complexes are still used for competitions and concerts.

Of course, the incredible increase in tourism has also had a very positive impact on the city, and is one that lasted long after the Games had ended. The increase in tourism in the ten years after the games was huge, with the number of tourists increasing 110% from 1990 to 2000. Just to give you an idea of how significant the growth in tourism was, in 1990 Barcelona had a total of 118 hotels. By 1992 the number had risen to 148 and by 2002 there were a total of 223. Since then the number of both tourists and hotels has risen and today Barcelona welcomes visitors from every corner of the globe.

These days, along with London, Paris, and Rome, Barcelona is one of the most visited cities in Europe. Barcelona´s Olympics have been held up as the “model Olympics” due to its success in terms of both a successful Olympic games and also the organizers success in transmitting this into a benefit for the city without burdening the citizens or the government with debt.

The Olympic Games were, and still are, a source of incredible pride for the citizens of Barcelona, Catalonia, and Spain. The success of the Games was also recognized internationally. On August, 1992, the New York Times ran an article about the Olympic Games that said, “The athletes never had a chance. No matter how well they jumped and ran and rowed, they could never dominate these Summer Games. The city won the games. The people of Catalonia won the games”.

Església de Santa Maria del Mar - the church dedicated to the sea

The Església de Santa Maria del Mar (the church of Saint Maria of the sea) is a 14th century church located in Barcelona´s Ribera (El Borne) district. Between 300 and 500 A.D. the site where the church is now located was a Roman cemetery, the remains of which were uncovered during restoration work in the 1960´s. In fact, Barcelona´s patron saint, Santa Eulàlia, was buried here after her martyrdom in 303 A.D, although her remains were transferred to Barcelona´s cathedral, Catedral de la Seu, in 1339.

The first mention of the church dates back to 998, although not much is known about the original structure, which was dedicated to Saint Mary of the Sea. What is known is that in 1324 the idea for a new and more extravagant church was proposed, which was to be built on the same site. The new church would fulfill a vow made centuries earlier by Jaume I to build a church to watch over all Catalan seafarers. The name is meant to symbolize the naval supremacy of Barcelona during that time, exemplified by the recent conquest of Sardinia, as well as its location on the sea.

Construction was begun in 1329 on the order of King Jaume II, who also oversaw construction of Barcelona´s cathedral, La Catedral de la Seu. All of the architectural guilds of the Ribera quarter were involved, and the walls, side chapels, and facades were all completed by 1350. In 1379 there was a fire that delayed construction, so the building was not officially completed until 1383.

 The time frame was incredibly fast for its time, which gives the church an architectural unity not normally seen in buildings of that time period. Most medieval churches took centuries to build which meant that they incorporated a variety of different styles. The fact that the church of Santa Maria del Mar was built in just 53 years means its architectural style is more harmonious that most.

The main facade, which is on the west end, is best known for its rose window, which is a circular window often used in Gothic architecture. The original window destroyed in an earthquake in 1428 so a new one was built in 1459. Also notable are the figures on the doors of the main entrance. They are men carrying stones on their back, and were built in memory of the men who assisted in the construction of the church.

Upon entering the church, the first thing that strikes most visitors is the spaciousness and light of the church. It is a classic example of Catalan-gothic architecture, also known as “wide-gothic” in which architects concentrated making the building as wide as possible without the roof collapsing, in contrast to other gothic styles that focused on steep towers.

The number eight (or multiples thereof), which was the medieval numerological symbol for the Virgin Mary, was used in every aspect of the church. There are 16 octagonal pillars which rise 16 meters, then stretch another 16 meters before finally meeting at the apex which is 32 meters above ground. The lateral aisles measure 8 meters each, and their sum equals the width of the center aisle.

The inside is much more austere than other churches of that time. This is due partly due to a fire during the Spanish Civil War in 1936 which destroyed a large part of the interior. Many of the Baroque details were destroyed, but most people consider this a blessing in disguise because the long-term restoration work has concentrated on showing off the simplicity of the inside, with a focus on the stain glass. The end result is that the church is now considered even more beautiful that it was before the fire.

Both the exterior and interior of the church are quite stunning and are worth a visit. It is also known for its amazing acoustics so if visitors that have an opportunity to see concerts or choirs perform there should be sure not to miss out.
The church of Santa Maria del Mar has inspired many stories, including “The Cathedral of the Sea” written by first-time novelist Ildefonso Falcones.

The historical novel describes Barcelona at the height of the Inquisition with the construction of the church serving as a background to the story. It spent a year in the number one spot on Spain´s best-seller and is a great read for anyone who has visited or plans to visit the church.

The church is located in the Plaza de Santa Maria, on Passeig del Born (metro Jaume I). It is open daily from 9am to 1:30pm and 4:30pm to 8pm. Mass takes place weekdays at 9:30am and 7:15pm, Saturdays at 7:30pm, and Sundays and holy days at 11am, 12:20pm, and 7:30pm. Entrance is free.

Monestir de Pedralbes - a monastic village within the city

The Monestir de Pedralbes is a 14th century convent which was founded by Queen Elisenda for the nuns of the Order of Saint Clare in 1326. It is located in Sarrià which today is considered just another Barcelona neighborhood, but which at that time was quite far from the city center. It is set within medieval walls and gateways which shut out the noise of the city and make it feel like its own small village.

Construction began in 1326 and was completed in just thirteen months. The name “pedralbes” comes from the words Petras Albas, Latin for “white stones”, which were used in the construction of the building. On May 3, 1327 the nuns officially took up residence in the monastery. Later on they were joined by servants and gardeners, who also lived on the grounds.

The building is considered a good example of Catalan Gothic architecture due to the fact that it was built in just one year, so it does not incorporate other styles. The three-storey cloister is considered the highlight of the convent, as are the gardens. Even better, it doesn´t get nearly as many visitors as some of the other sights in Barcelona which means that those who decide to stop here will be able to tour the grounds and take photos in relative peace.

If you follow the recommended route which goes anticlockwise through the convent the first thing you will see is a small chapel dedicated to Sant Miguel (Saint Michael). Its frescoes were painted by Ferrer Bassa and depict scenes from the lives of Jesus and Mary. Curiously, scratched into one of the paintings (on the right side, between Saint Francis and Clare) is what some consider to be Barcelona´s earliest graffiti. The words “Joan no m’oblides” (John, don’t forget me) are clearly visible, and are said to have been written by a young nun who was unhappy with her life in the convent.

The next room contains the tomb of Queen Elisenda, who died in 1364. The tomb is made of marble and has one very unique feature, which is that the sarcophagus is double-sided. On one side Queen Elisenda is represented as a window in mourning and on the other side as a queen.

Continuing on there are several utility rooms, the day cells of the nuns and a staircase which leads to the second floor. The second floor can also be visited but the third floor is closed to the public. This part of the convent is particularly interesting as it gives the visitors insight into the lives of the nuns living in the convent during the past centuries.

There is also a museum located in the former dormitory of the monastery. It contains religious art as well as artifacts from the monastery, some of which date back to the 14th century. Some of the most spectacular pieces of the museum include paintings from the 16th and 17th century, including the Triptych of the Epiphany from the Della Robbia workshop, the Rocabertí retable and the Flemish Diptych of the Vigo Lactans and the Pieta.

The garden is large and adds to the sense of peacefulness that visitors immediately feel upon entering the convent. There are large palm trees and plenty of shade, so it is an ideal place to stop and take a break. In the middle of the courtyard there is a Renaissance fountain which adds to tranquility. The gardens are especially refreshing in summer and a great escape from the heat and humidity of the city center.

The nuns of the order of Saint Clare still reside here, although their living quarters are now in an adjacent building which is not open to the public. Even so, you may see them walking through the convent as they go about their day to day business, and some lucky visitors have reported overhearing their choir practice as they stroll through the monastery.

If you´re ready for a bite to eat after touring the convent be sure to stop at El Mató de Pedralbes, a restaurant which is just across the street. It´s named for the mató (a type of cottage cheese) that was traditional prepared by the nuns. The restaurant offers traditional Catalan food at a very reasonable price, including a set lunch menu during the week.

Address: Baixada del Monestir, 9, Barcelona
Phone: 93 256 34 34
Webpage: http://www.bcn.cat/museuhistoriaciutat/es/monestir_pedralbes.html
Hours: October 1 to March 30, Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 2pm, Sundays 10am to 8pm
April 1 to September 30, Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sundays 10am to 8pm
Price: €7 (includes an audioguide)
How to Arrive: Ferrocarriles de la Generalitat - U6 Reina Elisenda
Bus - 75, 22, 63, 6, and 78
Barcelona Tourist Bus- blue route (north)

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