The Gràcia District of Barcelona

October 13, 2009 by Olga Simon  
Filed under Gracia

The districts of Barcelona are known as ‘Barrios’, and the barrio Gràcia is very distinctive, as would be expected from its history. It was established in 1626, where a Carmelite convent was established there named “Nostra Senyora de Gràcia”, or ‘Our Lady of Grace’. Gràcia remained independent until it was annexed into Barcelona in 1897.

Gràcia has retained its village atmosphere, with small squares and narrow streets, and contrasts greatly with adjoining district of Eixample, the expansion of which in the 19th century led to the village being connected to the city of Barcelona. It retains its Catalan identity and traditions and although it is now a trendy and expensive place to live, Gràcia is home to many traditional shops alongside some excellent examples of Catalan modernist architecture.

Getting There

Gràcia is situated north of Eixample, its south-west boundary being the Ave. Diagonal and the west boundary the Via Augusta, and unless you know your way by car, it is best reached by taxi or the Metro, the nearest stations being Fontana and Lesseps. During the Fiesta de Gràcia there is a special bus service from streets Còrcega and Roger de Llúria in central Barcelona (Eixample).

Tourist Attractions

Gràcia is very Bohemian and hip, with lots of narrow streets, small squares and markets, and while it retains its village or small town atmosphere, it is very popular with the younger set. It is still very arty and politically conscious, but also boasts its share of trendy bars and restaurants from Irish and Latin clubs to old and modern bars.

The Plaça del Sol is the most famous square in Gràcia, with the Mond Bar, popular with the indie music set and the Sole de Nit and Sol Soler if you like a bit of action at night, although there has lately been a campaign by residents to keep the area quiet and peaceful that has led to the closure of several bars.  There are several good restaurants covering a wide price range, and lots of coffee shops and cafes. There are also some good theatres and cinemas here.

If you are interested in modernist architecture, one of Gaudi’s first important works is here, Casa Vincens, a UNESCO World Heritage site located at Carrer de les Carolines 24.  Its Moorish influence is very prominent.  Another of Gaudi’s works in the district is the Parc Guell located on El Carmel mountain, a municipal garden complex, originally inspired by the English ‘garden city’ movement.  This is another World Heritage site.

If you enjoy modern art, the Galeria Sala Dalmau exhibits works by Spanish and foreign contemporary artists, and it was where Salvador Dali’s acclaimed first one-man show took place in 1925. If you need more information on the neighbourhood, then you should visit the Palau Catalan Information Centre.  This is a museum, exhibition centre and concert venue as well a tourist information centre, situated in the Passeig de Gràcia. 

The Festes de Gràcia

If you are in Barcelona in August you mustn’t miss the 8-day ‘Festa Major’, correctly referred to as the Festes de Gràcia.  One of the largest and most traditional of the festivals in Barcelona, this is nothing less than a week-long street party! There are processions, parades and parties and lots of food and drink. 

The streets are decorated, with prizes for the best decorate, and over 600 events take place every year, ranging from bands and dancing to traditional castellers (human pillars or castles), correfocs, where the public are chased by diables (devils) carrying sparkling fireworks, and gegants (giant papier-maché dolls).

There are concerts in the squares and plazas, with music ranging from folk and jazz to swing and lindy-hop. The Festes de Gràcia is a marvelous sight, and Gràcia is marvelous place to be at this time of year.  Don’t miss it if you are here in August.

Another annual event is the Romería de Sant Medir, held in Gràcia every March. It involves a parade of decorated floats that pass by throwing sweets to the people in the streets. As you can imagine, the children get really excited at this, and it’s a great way to see the ‘real’ Barcelona people. This is for themselves and their children, and not just for the tourists. 

In general, the neighbourhood of Gràcia is well worth visiting while you are in Barcelona. It is real Catalonia, and a great place to practice your Catalan. Its traditional food market offers traditional cheeses, fish, and fresh fruit and vegetables and the prices are good while the quality is as great as you would expect. The craftsmanship of local designers is evident in the clothes stalls and boutiques, and if you want original language films, then the Verdi Cinema on C/Verdi is the place to go, or even the Verdi Park Cinema on C/Torriljos.

Barri Gràcia is the place to be when you visit Barcelona, particularly if you are fortunate to be here in August for the Festes de Gràcia. Even then, however, it is the one district in Barcelona you must visit if you want a taste of the real Catalonia.

Bienvenidos a Gràcia !

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