A Park to Get Lost In

Barcelona has some wonderful green spaces, the more popular being Parque Güell, Parque de Ciudadella and the gardens of Montjuic however there is one outdoor oasis that many tourists only see on a return trip for their second or third visit all the while wishing they had discovered this secret garden sooner. I for one didn’t become acquainted with the romantic Parc del Laberint until I had been living in Barcelona for 6 months.

It was pure curiosity that led me to the park, which I had heard supposedly had a full-size fairytale labyrinth that was perched high above the city in an area called Horta de Guinardo. No one I knew, who were primarily other recent transplants, had ever visited the park nor been that far up in the foothills of Barcelona adding to the Parc de Laberint’s mystery. I set off one afternoon in search of this park that sounded more like a fantastical urban legend than a public space with greenery however my garden-quest didn’t disappoint.

Far above the city center and off the typical tourist route I discovered the Parc del Laberint, a tranquil peace of heaven that seemed to be open just for me. Unlike the other public parks in the area, Parc de Laberint charges a nominal fee and forbids, dogs, game playing and picnics, which may sound like a bore but this maintains the peaceful atmosphere that lends itself for a quiet romantic walk with your partner or a solo day in the park with a good book. If you want action and activity, this isn’t the place to come but it still provides plenty of enjoyment.

For the record, the Parc del Laberint dose have a maze designed with 750 meters of cypress trees that will make adults and kids feel like Alice in Wonderland as they wonder through the well manicured shrubs. To add to the fun, a sculpture of Eros is placed strategically in the center of the maze as well as a nymph statue that sits in a cave at the entrance of the maze. However there is more to this park than its legendary labyrinth.

Covering 9 hectares of land, you’ll come across landscaped gardens with flower beds, streams and ponds as well as small squares. The wooded areas go one for what seem like eternity and there are countless secret hiding spots waiting to be discovered and sculptures of mythological Greek gods that will keep you company while doing so.

Quoted as the ‘’green jewel of Horta’’ the Parc del Laberint is Barcelona’s oldest garden that dates back to 1791. An Italian engineer by the name of Domenico Bagutti, assisted in the design of the neo-classical garden working with the Marquis de Llupia y Alfarras, who was owner of the estate.

However after the death of Joan Antoni Desvalls (the given name of the marquis) his descendants extended the grounds adding a Romantic garden with the help of French architect Elies Rogent in 1853. This new development included flower beds, gazebos and a waterfall as well as a water canal that linked two of the terraces of the original garden design. Then again in 1880 an additional garden was built surrounding the Desvalls’ palace.

Just as one might imagine the enchanting Parc del Laberint was the location for many festivities up through the end of the 19th Century while still under the ownership of the Desvalls. The property remained in their hands until the mid-20th Century when the city of Barcelona took over ownership of the property in 1969. A few years later in 1971 the City Council opened the property as a public park for visitors but unfortunately the estate was in need of a major renovation due to high foot traffic and vandalism. In 1994 the park received the overhaul it so desperately needed and learning from their early mistakes, the City Council set a rule only allowing 750 visitors in the park simultaneously so that the garden remains in tact.

Today the Parc consists of three main sections - the original Classical Garden, the Romantic Garden and the wooded area. The Classical Garden, the focal point of the whole park, is divided into three terraced gardens with the lowest garden being the famed labyrinth. The top two levels are dotted with various architectural details like two temples dedicated to goddesses Ariadna and Danaya, there is a bust of Dionysius and a small pavilion.

The second addition to the park, the Romantic Garden is where you’ll find the hidden alleyways and waterfalls that evoke just as its name implies the idea of romance. There is also a small graveyard in this area but I don’t understand how it is linked to the concept of love except if we are talking about the Shakespearian type like you’ll find in Romeo and Juliet. Other delights within the park include the actual mansion where the Desvalls family once resided and another structure called the Torre Subirana that mimics a structure you would find in the Middle Ages.

During the summer months and throughout the year there are also regular events that are organized by the Garden Training Center, which is housed on grounds within the former mansion. To see the calendar of events or for more information on the Parc del Laberint go to www.bcn.cat/parcsijardins.

Carrer dels Germans Desvalls 00
Tel: 934 132 400
Hours: Monday - Saturday 9am - 7pm